Sitting in the tent waiting for the early morning rain to clear, I’m taking a moment to reflect on my pace over the previous 10 days.
Officially I’m at ~150km distance, with over 4000m of ascent. My average pace is 4km/hour. This is slower than my norm for day hikes at 5km/hour, however the first week was exceptionally hot (27C) plus I’m carrying nearly 9kg base weight plus 2Kg water. My training at home was frequently over well-known terrain so no need for map checks and backtracking when lost, and a significantly lighter pack. My pace has picked up now it’s cooler but with rain forecast every day next week I may slow again as conditions underfoot get slippery.
One thing I’ve noticed is my response to endorphins when exercising needs managing better. The high when motoring along very quickly, whether that’s on a flat pavement or a perfect incline up, can get the better of me. On a monotonous flat pavement I get quicker and quicker until I feel I could run, but the identical repetitive strides lead to twinges. While on the inclines I can get into heart zone 4 and stay there but the perspiration is incredible. Both these situations are not ideal even though the high is great! I do need to moderate my endorphin response so I can maintain good health over long days repeatedly.
My pee colour noticeable changed last week, perhaps coincidentally as the temperature rose. Assuming on this hike my exertion has been similar each day, which it roughly has, when it was 27C the pee was colour 6 on this chart, when below 20C colour 3-4. I was sweating water faster than I could rehydrate, even though I thought I was drinking enough. Or I’m expressing more bilirubin in my pee as I’m at that point on my cycle of Gilbert’s Syndrome; difficult to tell as it comes and goes irregularly.
Anyway, it’s good to have some sort of pace baseline for planning ahead.
Today I walk past Sidmouth to a small coastal village where old time friend Katy resides. As tomorrow is forecast stormy weather with heavy rainfall her offer of spare room for two nights, a washing machine and a day indoors as a rest day couldn’t be missed.
Just past Beer on the cliff top the path diverges. As it was gusting I choose the more difficult official route in the undercliff. It was worth it for the vegetation.



I met Katy at Sidmouth who’d caught the coastal bus to me. Salad and cheesy chips in the cafe at Connaught Gardens which incidentally is a good place to eat a packed lunch if weather is poor – there are plenty of sheltered benches in the gardens.
Onwards to Ladram Bay where the attractive sea stacks caught my eye.

Katy has offered me a room for 2 nights while I rest during Sundays storms. Washing machine, bed and a bath- luxury!
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