New Valley Hills

Up at 0600 to cold, heavy condensation overnight. No breeze has left everything sodden outside my tent inner.

I found a blister on a toe – hadn’t felt it! My foot care regime and/or improved skin durability is working well. 👍

Although up early I didn’t leave until 0800. Clothes were so smelly, so a quick rinse. Then an hour on a fence in dawn light trying to make them less cold to dress with. Brr! Fortunately today is warm with little wind so I should dry as I walk. In the moment it’d escaped my mind to use Pete’s washing machine yesterday.

Village Post Office provided breaky fruit and told me about where to spot seals this morning. Later I hope to spot jumping tuna! Yesterday a section hiker coming towards me told me where to detour at high tide.

I walk through overnight cobwebs and push through long dewy grass and nettles down to a beach.

Bumping into a local out for a morning constitutional apparently I’m an ‘end-to-ender’ not a thruhiker.

By 0900 my washed clothes are comfortable- warm sun, light breeze and body heat even in 10-12C is sufficient.

The UltraGam gaiters do an excellent job keeping gritty sand out of my shoes as I motor 4km along Slapton Sands.

The Billy Can cafe in Torcross for second breaky is another reminder of the Second World War and the impact it had on this coastline and its people.

I’m a quarter of the way round! 267km along and 8.3km of ascents.

It’s a small world – bumped into Sue a colleague from my last employment. We exchanged friendly words as we passed each other.

This copse of trees is followed by a wild apple tree.

Seals bob in the waters, though too far away to capture on camera.

Access to the lighthouse is closed due to bad weather. Back on the path I look back and can seeing leaping and splashing beyond the surf and rocks but too far away to identify what it is.

Spectacular scenery. Stiff inshore breeze boils the water, seals bob, late summer butterfly pairs cavort and a bird of prey scouts the moorland for a meal. The smell of sea salt and fresh seaweed is strong. Lannacombe – what a spot.

I get house envy for the first time this hike.

I hit 16km just after noon. This is my benchmark for a 32km day.

The sun dries my washing on my backpack.

This is by far the best coastline so date. If you want a day’s walking do Torcross to Salcombe.

Last night I stayed on a campsite which was high enough it was used as a lookout beacon to warn of the approaching Spanish Armada. This crossed the bay in the afternoon.

I fall out of the ferry knackered into Salcombe. By mistake I order a macchiato instead of a mocha, getting my ‘M’ coffees muddled up. Regardless, it was excellent and I tell the staff so.

Fuelled by caffeine and an extraordinarily good peanut butter brownie I press on 8km to the campsite.

Today is tough on my plates of meat. Like walking on FruGrains. I’m grateful for the forefoot rock plate in my shoes but wish for more protection from the jagged edges.

I pass Cheryl ‘Ski’ who I have seen her posts on Facebook. She has been walking since July doing sometimes just 16km a day. I’m impressed by her grit. [Update December 2023. Cheryl’s ebook “I’m no Shakespeare: Walking the South West Coast Path” is a great read!]

Today is the second day my walking duration exceeds the battery of my Apple Watch. I must remember to charge it at lunchtime.

Tonight I nearly get moved on after I’m in bed, on a campsite!By a mixup with pitch instructions I end up on someone else’s spot. A few words at 2130 with a promise I’d be gone in the morning they settle around me.