New Valley Hills

I slept long last night.

I head back to the coast walking along for a breaky.

Talking of pasties I can now buy a different local brand every day, not a Ginsters or Chunk to be seen.

Storm Agnes is landing soon. I keep checking the forecast as risk of life in coastal area is being said. Today looks good so I make good progress. At each village or town I re check the forecast and look for accommodation. It turns into a hot day -19C and no shade all day. I guzzle water and sweat it out.

Looe to Polberro is a popular section. Loads of day trippers huffing and puffing.

Polperro is overrun with dog owners. I don’t hang around.

Polperro to Polruan is a lovely quiet stretch. I cruise along, though do curse a couple of inclines.

Occasionally I pass the time of day with section walkers coming towards me. We trade tips on what’s to come for each other. I’m told not to buy cockles from a particular kiosk as the owner had been seen feeding the gulls cockles from her hands. Food hygiene!

Again my mini gaiters are admired. UltraGam on Etsy, or dirtygirlgaiters.com depending what fabric pattern you like.

A fudge shop catches my eye. It sells tablet fudge my fav. I’m assured by the shopkeeper it’s better than Scottish tablet. Betterer I inquire, she laughs back yes. At pre-pandemic pricing I eagerly buy. It fuels the next 12km.

I make it further than expected, arriving at Polruan. Lovely campsite and owners.

My tent pitch tonight is perfect. It’s almost windless, I hope this’ll last the night.

I’m assured the ferry to Fowey will run in the morning even as the wind picks up – it does the school run meaning it’s not just for tourists. Agnes hits here noon until Thursday morning. I spend ages ringing around, the cheapest accommodation is £110, but at least I can get in at 1100 to wash, eat and sleep for my rest day.

I decide to do machine laundry at the campsite. Someone comments it’s like the Levi Jean advert when they overhear me say I have to wash everything. We laugh as I sit there in my rustling waterproof over trousers and jacket.

For last 7 days I’ve averaged 32km. Legs wise I’m in the groove. I’m 40% of the way round.