New Valley Hills

I sleep badly. On the trail at 0740.

Being inland a bit I cut off a corner and head swiftly for the tidal bridge over The Gannel. I pass through Crantock which had a lovely unspoilt village heart. The local shop is cooking pastries, I’m drawn by the smell.

The tidal bridge isn’t accessible at high tide. I make very good time on empty country lanes.

Into Newquay. Horrid but somewhat useful. My shirt is posted home as I find a Mountain Warehouse top for £12.50 identical to one I bought in Weymouth. The shirt felt sticky even when washed.

Wild goose chase looking for a greengrocers. Fruit not sold loose in any of the shops I go into.

Dejected I buy a saffron bun and new insoles. My shoes are falling apart, second time I’ve glued the nose shut. The grippy sole lugs are wearing down. Only yesterday I was asked how grippy they were, ‘good’ I replied. 1km further on I slipped onto my arse. Can’t do much about the grip but the super insoles should help my weary feet over the rocky trail.

I fnd Callestick amaretti and cherry ice cream . Good but not as moorish as their clotted cream and blackcurrant.

Today is overcast but as warm as yesterday at 21C. Very muggy with rising humidity. I reckon the rain forecast for Wednesday-Friday might come sooner.

I’ve picked up a sore throat from somewhere. Didn’t sleep well. I buy throat sweets and painkillers. I hope it’s nothing more. Another clockwise thruhiker a week ahead of me is holed up in a hotel in Newquay with a confirmed case of Covid. I pass by his hotel.

My pasty is a Warrens. They might be old but it was not as good as Philps.

Trenance has a greater proportion of ‘Grand Designs’ houses than any village I’ve come through.

The sun comes out, raise the temperature but reducing the humidity. I sweat on.

Porthcothan has a tiny store. They sell fruit loose. I scoff the orange immediately, carrying the apple and banana for breakfast.

The campsite is superbly quiet.

Has it really been 12 days since my last rest day? Tomorrow is Padstow. I’m tempted to take a rest day there to enjoy the culinary delights, but Friday has the worst weather. Maybe I’ll crack on until then into Boscastle.